一
 在中国历史上，世界三大宗教即佛教、伊斯兰教、基督教都曾在中国流传，其中以佛教在中国的影响最大，然而它们都是外来宗教。真正土生土长并对中华民族历史、文化以及传统产生重大影响的则是道教。
道教作为中国固有的宗教，源于古代的巫术和秦汉（公元前221年至公元220年）之际的神仙方术和阴阳五行之术。
严格地讲，中国道教的正式出现应该是在东汉（公元25年至220年）末年，由张道陵所创立，其诞生是以五斗米道、太平道的出现为标志。自唐代（公元618年至907年）以后，道教曾远渡重洋，流传于朝鲜、日本、越南和东南亚一带。道教的经籍也远传欧美，影响深远。
道教以老聃所提出的“道”为基本信仰和教义。其“道”即是虚无之系，造化之根，神明之本，天地之无，而“道”又生出宇宙，宇宙再生出元气，元气才构成天地、阴阳、四时，由此而化生万物。（图：崂山“绛雪”/摄影 侯贺良。）
二
 山东作为礼仪之邦，尽管受孔孟之道的感染深厚，但道教于此也是影响至深。至今，在山东境内的泰山、崂山、昆嵛山、蓬莱阁、峄山、大泽山、蒙山及大丰山等诸多地方都供奉着道教之尊老聃以及其创始者的塑像，且香火袅袅。
道教作为中国土生土长的宗教，它与佛教、伊斯兰教、基督教的一个重要区别就是：道教不是一神教，而是多神教。
道教所崇奉的神仙，不仅有一教的开山祖师，而且有中国古代传说中的各种神灵；不仅有与人们的生死祸福、日常生活息息相关的天、地、日、月、星、辰、山、川等各种俗仙，而且还有历代圣贤以及得道成仙的传说中的人物。（图：峄山子孙石/摄影 侯贺良）
神仙说是道教的基本观念。道教认为可以“因修而得”，一旦得道，便可以长生不老，并可成仙。千百年来，神仙说作为道教的重要标志在中国已经深入人心。像“八仙过海，各显神通”，“脱胎换骨”，“一人得道，鸡犬升天”等与道教神仙有关的典故早已被中国人所熟知。
道家之所以尊神甚众，其因颇多。但主要根源还是来自于中华民族庞大的历史体系。据有关专家统计，著名的道教神仙就在1000位以上。而在如此庞大的神仙体系中，有十几位神仙在道教中占有非常崇高的地位，人们习惯上称其为道教神尊，如三清、四御、西王母、真武大帝、文昌帝君以及三官大帝等。
若论山东境内道家香火最盛之处，那么当数泰山。除泰山之巅的玉皇大帝、王母娘娘之神外，更为人知晓的便是碧霞元君（又称泰山老母、泰山老奶奶）。美丽的泰山不仅以其雄伟峻拔著称于世，也因碧霞祠的壮丽辉煌而驰名中外。碧霞元君不仅为泰山、为山东，而且也为中国的百姓所接受着，其香火自是终日连绵不断。若是遇了每年农历的三月三、六月六、九月九，游览泰山叩拜神仙的人们更是络绎不绝，从红门入口至南天门及至玉皇顶，尽在香火熏染之中，其场面之大令人赞叹不已。（图：高耸云端的蒙山玉皇殿/摄影 李科村）
三
细数中国著名的道观，如北京的白云观，是道教中的最高机构，统领着中国的道教。江西省的龙虎山，是天师道的中心机构所在地，已有1000多年的历史，统领着完整着南方的“正一道”。而广东省佛山的祖庙，内供着真武帝君，对东南亚一带都产生着影响。还有湖北武当山的真武庙，所供奉的真武帝君，亦镇守着一方。这都是道教集中地。
而在山东，道教尽管没有其至高至上规格，却也有自己独特之处。烟台的蓬莱阁，尽管规模不大，却也名扬四海。蒲松龄先生笔下的《崂山道士》，更是将青岛的秀姿抹上一份神秘的璀灿。（图：碧霞元君/摄影 侯贺良）
其实，道 教的名气之大，不仅仅于其自身的教之根本有关，而且还与其居所的建筑风格艺术相关。
道教建筑为地地道道的木构建筑体系。其建筑组合原理与住宅、宫殿及佛寺大体相同，所以道教又有“仙人好楼居”之说。楼阁便成了道教建筑特点之一，诸如望海阁、聚仙楼、万仙楼等。
如果说山东境内的道教名山建筑风格与众不一的话，那么应该是平邑之北的蒙山了。游人登至蒙山之巅，可见坐东面西的玉皇大帝之殿高耸云端，拾级而上，似有离却大地与人间的感觉。然而，这里的建筑虽巧妙而神远，但一律为水泥结构，与其他地方的道教建筑相比，显现出一种坚固而辉煌的气质。这自然是今人的杰作。（图：长清大丰山贯通寺内的石刻/摄影 曹玉山）
而长清境内的大丰山，其道教场所更有一番意味，因为其除了原有的木构建筑之外，还有今人后补的水泥建筑，可谓古今风格相融而一体，给人留下新鲜而深刻印象。随着时代的变迁，道教建筑风格虽然基本上在延袭着，但也在变异之中。
四
山东境内的道教名山分布较散，如果从省会济南出发，近可至以南的泰山、邹城的峄山及西南60公里的大丰山，而东南的蒙山、青岛的崂山和平度市的大泽山、烟台与威海的昆嵛山虽然相距数百公里，但由于所到之处均有高速公路通达，所以游览也不为难事。如果自驾车游览山东道教名山，大约五天时间足矣。然而，要想领略道教之真谛，就不是几日便能够获取的。具有悠久历史的道教文化，于此便显得非常深遂而厚重。（图：东岳泰山神/摄影 侯贺良）
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老子塑像/摄影 刘 斌 |
泰山王母池道士/摄影 侯贺良
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Text/ Li Ping Photo/ Hou Heliang, Liu Bin, Li Kecun, and Cao Yushan
The three most popular religions in the world, Buddhism, Islam, and Christianity all can find their existence in China. Buddhism has the greatest influence, but all of them came from abroad. However, an indigenous religion, Taoism, has also exerted a significant influence on Chinese history, culture, and traditions.
As a native religion, Taoism developed from ancient sorceries and can be traced back to the witchcraft, astrology, divination, and geomancy in the Qin and Han Dynasties (221B.C.- A.D.220).
Strictly speaking, the Taoism founded by Zhang Daoling appeared in the later Eastern Han Dynasty (A.D.25-A.D.220) with Taiping (means peace) Taoism and Wudoumi (five dou rice) Taoism as its leading symbols. Since the Tang Dynasty (618-907), Taoism traveled vast distances across the seas and spread to Korea, Japan, Vietnam, and other parts of Southeast Asia. More recently, Taoist scriptures have even traveled to Europe and America.
Taoism takes "Tao" as the basic belief and doctrine originated by Laodan (also called Laozi or Lao Tzu). According to Taoism, "Tao" was the essence of nothingness, the root of all creation, the source of divinities, the emptiness of the universe. Born from "Tao," the universe created vitality, the foundation of heaven and earth, Yin and Yang (opposite principles or forces existing in nature and human affairs, according to ancient Chinese philosophy), the four seasons and five elements, following which living creatures appeared.
Though Shandong Province, nurtured in the spirit of Confucius, is a land of ceremony and propriety, Taoism exerted a gradual and pervasive influence here. Even today, statues of Laodan and other originators can be found on many mountains in Shandong, such as Mount. Tai, Mount. Lao, Mount. Kunyu, Penglai Pavilion, Mount. Yi, Mount. Daze, Mount. Mung, and Mount. Dafeng. Furthermore, these statues are attracting an ever-increasing number of worshippers, pilgrims, and tourists every year.
The distinction of Taoism from Buddhism, Islam, and Christianity lies in its polytheism. Immortals worshipped in Taoism cover a wide range from its founder to various deities, including ordinary fairies in charge of things closely related with the fortunes of mortals and daily life, such as heaven, earth, sun, moon, stars, mountains, seas, rivers, and lakes, and also encompassing all previous sages and legendary figures who attained immortality.
Immortality is the essential doctrine of Taoism. Taoists insisted that the attaining of immortality comes from self-cultivation. One could live a fairy's life eternally, so long as he attained the highest state of spiritual enlightenment while on earth. Through thousands of years, this doctrine has become deeply rooted in the Chinese mind, traditions, culture, and folkways, resulting in many allusions related to Taoism, such as the "Eight Immortals going across the sea, each showing his own skill," "cast off one's old self," "when a man attains the Tao, even his pets ascend to heaven."
The reasons for polytheism are various. The main reason, however, lies in the long Chinese history. It is estimated that there are more than 1000 well-known Taoism immortals. Among them a few are of high prestige, for example, the Queen Mother of the Western Heavens and the Northern God. The most reputed Taoist mountain in Shandong Province is Mount. Tai.
Besides the Jade Emperor of Heaven and the Queen Mother of the Western Heavens, there is another widely worshipped goddess, the Green Ray Goddess (also called Bixiayuanjun or Mother of Taishan Mountain). The Green Ray Goddess Temple is of extraordinary magnificence, because of its popularity. On March 3rd, June 6th, and September 9th of the Chinese lunar calendar, crowds of people visit Mount. Tai. On the road from the entrance to the Jade Emperor of Heaven Top passing Southern Sky Gate, countless joss sticks and candles are burning to add to the mountain an unusual splendor.
When referring to famous Taoist temples, the White Cloud Temple is of paramount importance, since it is the center of Taoism. The Dragon and Tiger Mountain in Jiangxi Province, the location of Tianshi Taoism, with a Taoist history of more than 1000 years, is the center of Way of Orthodox Unity (one of the two major sects of Taoism which came into being in the 2nd century). Zu Temple in Foshan, Guangdong Province, has a wide influence on the religion in Southeast Asia. Zhenwu Temple on Mount. Wudang in Hubei Province enshrines the god Zhenwu, one of the most highly worshipped gods in Taoism.
Because Taoist temples and shrines have no single prevailing structural style in Shandong Province, each has a special and unique character all its own. Small as Penglai Pavilion is, it is nevertheless world-renowned. The charming Mount. Lao area enjoys its reputation arising from Pu Songling's short story "The Laoshan Taoist."
The various architectural styles of Taoism contribute much to its world fame. Taoist buildings are mainly wood structures with a design similar to residences, palaces, and Buddhist temples. According to legends, Taoist immortals are fond of pavilions, which therefore abound in Shandong, examples being the Wanghai, Juxian, and Wanxian Pavilions.
If there really exists a representative Taoist architectural style in Shandong Province, it would be the buildings found on Mount. Meng in the north of Pingyi County. At the top of the mountain, a palace dedicated to the Jade Emperor rises high into the sky. When climbing up to the top, one is overwhelmed by an ethereal atmosphere. The difference between these buildings and most other Taoist structures lies in the use of cement as well as wood in their construction, a factor which contributes greatly to their solidarity.
At Mount. Dafeng in Changqing County, newer temples match the old ones so well that they form a perfectly harmonious picture and have a unique charm all their own.
Mountains sacred to Taoists abound in Shandong Province. Mount. Tai, Mount. Yi, and Mount. Dafeng stand in a line to the south of Jinan City. To the southeast, one can find Mount. Mung in Linyi, Mount. Lao Qingdao, Mount Daze in the city of Pingdu, and Mount. Kunyu straddling the boundary between the city of Yantai to the city of Weihai. Expressways join these mountains together so that the distance between Mount. Kunyu and Jinan is shortened for the believers, the researchers, or the tourists. It takes only five days to visit all these mountains by car; but seeking the essence of Taoism, an extensive and rich religious culture with a long history, may take a lifetime.
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